Hi, I’m Eric. If you’ve spent any time looking for a new bag lately, you’ve probably noticed that the world is absolutely flooded with options. From the fast-fashion giants to the high-end luxury brands, everyone has a "leather" tote to sell you. But as a maker who spends my days surrounded by hides and heavy-duty thread here at The Kilted Leatherworker LLC, I can tell you that not all totes are created equal.
When I first started my leatherworking journey, I was obsessed with finding out why some bags lasted forty years while others fell apart after four months. What I discovered is that a truly great leather tote bag isn't just about the look; it’s about the "honest materials" and the hands that put them together.
If you’re in the market for handmade leather goods that you can actually pass down to your kids one day, here are 10 things you should know before you pull the trigger.
1. Not All Leather is Actually "Leather"
This is the big one. You’ll see a lot of bags labeled as "Genuine Leather." To a lot of folks, that sounds like a seal of quality. In reality, "genuine leather" is often a marketing term for one of the lowest grades of leather out there. It’s basically the plywood of the leather world: scraps bonded together with glue and painted to look nice.
I always recommend looking for full-grain leather. This is the top layer of the hide, which hasn't been sanded or buffed to remove natural marks. It’s the strongest part of the animal and, in my opinion, the most beautiful because it tells a story. When I'm selecting materials for a project, I look for those natural markings because they ensure your bag is a one-of-a-kind piece.
2. The Tanning Process Matters (A Lot)
There are two main ways to tan leather: chrome tanning and vegetable tanning. Chrome tanning is fast and cheap, using chemicals to turn a hide into leather in a matter of days. Vegetable tanning, on the other hand, is an ancient, slow-burn process using natural tannins from tree bark and plants.
I love working with vegetable-tanned (veg-tan) leather because it’s better for the environment and it has that classic, rich leather smell that you just don't get with the chemical-heavy stuff. Plus, veg-tan leather is stiffer and more durable, which is exactly what you want for a tote bag that’s going to carry your laptop, groceries, or gear.
3. Look at the Stitching
When you buy a mass-produced bag, it’s been run through a sewing machine. While modern machines are great, they use a "lockstitch." If one thread breaks, the whole seam can start to unwrap like a loose sweater thread.
In my workshop, I focus on hand-stitching (often called a saddle stitch). It takes much longer: one step at a time, ensuring that every stitch is perfect: but it’s incredibly strong. If a hand-stitch happens to break, the rest of the seam stays tight. It’s a labor of love, and you can really feel the difference in the finished product. You can read more about my leatherworking journey to see why I’m so picky about these details.
4. Handles are the First Thing to Fail
The handles are the hardest-working part of any tote bag. Think about how many times you pick it up, swing it over your shoulder, and pack it full of heavy items. When you're shopping, check how the handles are attached.
Are they just sewn onto the surface? Or are they reinforced with rivets and extra layers of leather? I like to use multilayered, sturdy straps and anchor them with heavy-duty hardware or reinforced stitching. If the handles feel flimsy, the bag won't last, no matter how good the leather is.
5. The "Smell Test" is Real
I know it sounds funny, but give the bag a sniff. Real, high-quality handmade leather goods should smell earthy and rich. If it smells like chemicals, plastic, or gasoline, that’s a red flag. It usually means the leather was tanned poorly or it’s actually a synthetic material (often called "vegan leather," which is usually just plastic) masquerading as the real deal. There’s something about the scent of a fresh piece of veg-tan hide that just makes me feel at home.
6. Hardware Quality is Often Overlooked
A beautiful leather bag with a cheap, plastic zipper or thin, "pot metal" buckles is a tragedy waiting to happen. High-quality totes should use solid brass or stainless steel hardware. I always look for hardware that has a bit of weight to it. You want the snaps to click firmly and the buckles to feel like they could survive a trek through the Highlands.
7. Price Reflects the Process
I’ll be the first to admit that a handmade leather tote bag is an investment. You can find "leather" bags for $40 at big-box stores, but they aren't built to last. When you buy from a small artisan, you aren't just paying for the material. You’re paying for the hours of hand-cutting, the hand-stitching, the edge burnishing, and the years of experience the maker brings to the bench.
A good tote should cost enough to reflect that labor. If the price seems too good to be true, it’s usually because someone, somewhere, cut a corner on quality or labor.
8. Embrace the Patina
One of the coolest things about full-grain, veg-tan leather is the patina. This is the natural darkening and "sheen" that develops over time as the leather absorbs oils from your hands and is exposed to the elements.
Unlike synthetic bags that look worse as they age, a quality leather tote actually looks better the more you use it. It becomes a record of your adventures. Little did I know when I first started out how much I’d grow to love the way a bag looks after a year of hard use. It’s like a fine wine: it just gets better with age.
9. Check the Edges
Take a look at the edges of the leather. Are they raw and fuzzy? Are they painted over with a thick, rubbery substance? Or are they "burnished" (sanded and rubbed until they are smooth and shiny)?
In my view, burnished edges are the sign of a maker who cares about the details. Painted edges can look nice at first, but they often crack and peel over time. A well-burnished edge, finished with a bit of beeswax or saddle soap, will stay smooth for a lifetime.
10. Who Made It?
Finally, know your maker. In a world of faceless corporations, there’s something special about knowing exactly whose hands crafted your bag. When you buy from The Kilted Leatherworker LLC, you're supporting a small business where every piece is made with intention.
I love being able to talk to my customers about what they need. Whether it’s a rugged tote for a daily commute or something smaller like our minimalist wallets, I want to make sure you’re getting something that fits your life.
Final Thoughts
Choosing a handmade leather tote is about more than just fashion. It’s about choosing quality over quantity and craftsmanship over convenience. If you’re looking for something that can handle your daily hustle and still look great a decade from now, keep these ten points in mind.
If you have questions about the process or want to see what's currently on my workbench, feel free to contact me. I’m always happy to chat about leather and help you find the right piece for your next adventure.
Thank you so much for taking the time to read this and for supporting small-scale craftsmanship. It truly means the world to me.
Stay adventurous,
Eric
Founder & Owner, The Kilted Leatherworker LLC